You can pull it straight out. The door handle and cable is one. The part the hose connects to is bolted to the engine … with two bolts. It connects to the t-stat housing at the top front of the engine. Raise and secure the car on jackstands.
You will want to buy a new gasket and sealer for reinstalling the thermostat housing. This then lets that assembly come out. Also a bracket that the bottom of the window sits in. Disconnect the radiator hose from the metal outlet pipe. Stick your finger in the throat and you'll feel the top of the thermostat. You might as well go ahead and change your upper and lower radiator hoses and water pump by-pass hose while you are at it if you haven't already.
The top radiator hose will lead you right to the t-stat housing. There is a wire harness plug into the bottom of the window power switch, and into the door light at the outer end of the panel. Oh, and there is a squeeze connector where this is wired in the center of the door, too. Now you should have reasonable access - albeit tight - to the regulator and motor. Coolant is combustable, poisenous, and very hot if the engine has been running.
There is another philps screw in the middle of the door below the armrest. Once you think you have these all removed, the panel should lift straight up and off. This is also something to consider if you don't want to invest in a new regulator, but just want to make sure the window doesn't come down by itself. Changing a thermostat in a 1997 Plymouth Voyager is very easy todo. Disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat cover. There are two clips along the bottom, and two on each side.
Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator Remove housing Make note how thermostat is installed Clean both surfaces Replace thermostat and gasket Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an air … lock Start engine and look for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Re-check coolant level plugs in under the dash. Use that tool again and gently remove any clips that are still into the door. Answer plugs in under the dash. Once these are all r … emoved or undone, the panel lifts up, out of brackets that hold it at the top. Call your helper again, to assist in removing the plastic barrier that is no longer held in by any clips, but on really gooey stuf along the edge of the door.
. If it's the same as a 1996 Buick Somerset, then. This is at the upper part of the door, so you need to remove the panel completely but might be able to cheat and not remove all the plastic sheet. Remove the single screw in the middle and voila, the handle assembly is now detached. The motor and cable coil assembly is held in place by 4 bolts metrics that are in keyhole sockets. I happen to have an AmPro tool I purchased at a local auto parts store.
Remove the cover that protects the outlet pipe on the thermostat housing by accessing cover bolts through the exhaust manifold runners. Remove the two bolts holding the thermostate housing to the engine and tap until the gasket sealer breaks loose. Still that gooey stuff around the door, try to keep it off of you, wires, and other parts. Each of these need squeezing from the sides of the connectors to pull them out. That will assure the system is not under pressure. You will need to open the cooling system and drain out coolant. Just find the top radiator house and … follow it to the engine.
Without this, it is very easy to have them pull through the door panel or break, both things you want to avoid. Real Answer: It is behind the trunk lining attached to the back of the rear seat just above the access … panel to the fuel pump. Definitely get a tool from your local auto parts store that is made for sliding under panels and gently removing clips. It should be full of antifreeze and or water and you may not see the thermostat, … but it's there. I have not been able to locate a source for replacement clips.