The only other modification that I had to do is to cut off a section of the case to clear my headers. The reason I'm staying with the 700R4 is I want an overdrive transmission. Using the three switch positions as follows: center off position -- never locked; down position -- automatically locks going into 4th and unlocks on the 4-3 shift; and up position -- manually locked in 2nd, 3rd or 4th. I think this will work on any of them. Doesn't matter the new one is in the there now got it from Bow Tie Overdrives. I adjust mine to the point where it wouldn't do the downshift and then back the other way one click at a time with the slider until it will.
This is why it is called a cancel switch, it cancels power when the pedal is pressed. Theirs 2 different kinds,one with a square metal plate,these brake at 5in. I didn't really film the rebuilding, cause honestly I didn't know what I was doing, and it took about 6 months, hour here, hour there. If you do this mod, you change to the new pressure switch, depending on which type of solenoid you have, and leave the other switches in the valve body. If I connect 12 volts to pin D, I do get a click. The piece I removed is on the passenger side. This wire is connected to ground only when the pressure switch closes going into 4th to lock up the convertor or it will be grounded if you use a second manual switch attached to the B terminal to manually lock the transmission.
When this thing let go it leaves you with no gears at all. Furthermore, we feel that not using a lock up converter has inherent negative effects that are undeniable and will lead to a shortened transmission life. Regardless, I also have a switch on the 12V+ side so at my choosing I can deactivate the convertor lock-up. Now, this is only a belief of mine. This Torque Converter section of our web site is in seven parts.
I put in the 700R4 from the parts 89 Firebird Formula, completely as is with the stock converter just so the cars is drivable. Now I'm going to use a vac. The pressure switch which needs to be changed is the center, rear one. This circuit controls everything via the ground side. Will the tranny will fit in the car? I just finished installing a 700R4 and need to wire it.
For more detailed pictures of how I modified one carb be sure and check this page. These are slim so this is the reason I recommend to use a junkyard donor for the plug black arrow, photo D. And I had a component failure temperature switch. If they aren't right it is going to be hard to get the transmission to shift right under all load combinations and you sooner or later you will be fixing the transmission. The is the piece is part of the piston assembly that goes inside the above drum.
We found this on the net sources and we believe this is one of the excellent content for reference. This switch works exactly opposite the brake light switch, whereas the brake light switch allows current, only when the brake pedal is depressed, the cancel switch interrupts current when the brake pedal is depressed, thereby unlocking the torque converter clutch, such as in a panic stop. This shows the sheared off splines. I can't accelerate with any serious intent in 4th without it dropping back to 3rd. While it is necessary, the 12V+ runs directly to the positive side of the lock-up solenoid. For use on the outside of the transmission, use switches rated for external use to avoid possible fluid leakage. Page 2 of this pdf talks about the 'click test' to test the solenoid: as does post 4 on this thread: If I attach 12 volts to pin A, I don't get a click.
Changing the switch and wiring can be done in the car without a problem. Remove the old wiring, but save everything in case you want or need to put it back like it was. The shifter is a little hard, requires a lot of force, but it's nice. The picture doesn't really show it but the piece is cracked and has a lot of metal shavings from the destruction. When the engine speed falls below a preset speed or the brake pedal is depressed, the circuit is interrupted and the fluid passage is blocked and the torque converter plate is released, the released fluid is bled off through a checkball.
Ultimately I yanked the transmission straight out onto a car seat. It is actually a pressure switch in the 4th gear fluid circuit that closes the negative side of the lock-up solenoid to ground making it active and engages the convertor lock-up. With my luck the tranny let go on the highway around midnight with no one around. Replaced the 4th gear switch and now it is working as it should. When I get it back, I think I'll try not using the wire to Pin D and not use the manual switch. Both the 2004R and 700R4 use a lockup-style torque converter that requires 12 volts and a pressure switch to lock up in Fourth gear. I use a 700R4 in my truck and have accumulated the following information that might help you.
It only had one pressure switch. A common Bosch-type relay used. You need to make sure that when the brake pedal is all the way out there is power going through, press the pedal and the power is interrupted. If you do not understand basic wiring, get help from someone who does or research it first. For vacuum going to the low-vacuum switch you will need to use a manifold vacuum source. I have absolutely no proof, other than what I have seen.